Relieving Guidelines for Guide Puppies
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- Any time a pup requires relieving without a planned command to do so.
- This includes house accidents, indoor relieving during outings, outdoor walks that are interrupted by the need to stop to relieve.
Relieving in harness is one of the leading reasons dogs do not become Guides. While there are some dogs that show stress in this way, others are tripped up by habits developed as puppies. There are three areas of relieving we can work on to help our pups avoid the “relieving trap.”
1. In the House: Heel the puppy to the relieving area, with a double clipped training leash, shortened down. Have the dog sit. Lengthen the leash so the dog can hear the snaphook click. Cast or send him out to your right, away from your left side. Have him circle or figure-eight in front of you and to the right. Try to habituate the puppy never to relieve in heel position or on your left. Stand in one place--take no more than one step in any direction. Don't let the pup lead you around. Quietly praise the dog for sniffing and other pre-relieving behaviors. Don't distract the dog by talking to it or repeating "do your business" over and over. Give the pup five minutes to finish. If the puppy doesn't relieve, crate her until the next scheduled relieving--even if that is four hours away. (If the pup has medical problems such as bladder infection or diahhrea, relieving sooner is necessary). Crating reduces the likely hood of accidents and allows you more control of relieving behaviors. Don't scold the dog if it doesn't empty, simply put it in its kennel until next time. Once the dog successfully relieves, give it lavish praise and play time. Always leash-relieve your dog before letting it play in the yard. The free time after relieivng will make a positive association for the dog with doing its business when asked. Get the pup used to relieving on various surfaces and with distractions (i.e. in the front yard) right from the start. The command “Do your business” means “Now is your chance to go and you'd better take it because it's going to be a while before you can go again!” .
2. On Outings: When the pup is very young, plan outings that are short and non-stressful. Dedicate the outing to socializing the puppy and don't expect to get any errands done while you're out. Do not relieve the puppy before you leave home; rather, ask him to relieve before you enter the store. If the pup doesn't relieve, take it home, or take a ten minute break in the car and try again. Once he's relieved, go into the store for about ten minutes, then take the puppy back to the car, drive home, and give it another chance to relieve. This teaches the pup to relieve away from home with distractions and gives you an “empty” pup and hopefully a successful outing. As the pup gets older, lengthen the amount of time in the store. Once your pup is fairly successful, it's time to start taking him on errands and along for more of your everyday routine. If you have your pup at work all day, establish a “home base” at work that you can use as a second home.
3. On Neighborhood walks: Relieve before you start out on your walk. Correct your puppy for trying to relieve on route. Have the puppy sit every few steps to encourage him to use his "holding it" muscles. Make it home if possible before letting the puppy finish up. After a while, the puppy will develop a pattern. If he always defecates after twenty minutes of walking, walk out ten minutes and back ten minutes, so he can make it home without relieving on the walk. Then gradually increase the length of time he is asked to go before relieving. The idea is to teach the puppy that it is never okay to relieve on route, and never okay to relieve on the left side in heel position.
A year-old dog should only need to relieve four to five times a day. Unless there is a physical problem, don't let your dog try to convince you otherwise, especially if it's fidgeting at work or class and simply wants a little break—it's okay (even desirable) to ask it to hold its bladder until a convenient break in your schedule! Relieving success for an one-year-old puppy includes walking a six-to-eight block neighborhood route without stopping to empty. If your pup relieves on a outing more than twice a year, that's too much. Careful attention to relieving habits will pay off with fewer embarrassing accidents to clean up in public, and, hopefully, a grand graduation day!
Graduates often touch their dogs so they can verify that the dog is actually relieving. The training department will work on this procedure when your dog is in formal training. Please DO NOT touch your dog when it is relieving.
- Remember to take off the coat before giving the "do your business" command
- If the dog starts to relieve while in coat, do not make a big deal about it, but do gently interrupt the process with a mild correction. Help the dog make it to an appropriate releiveing area by asking it to sit periodically until you can get there. Next time, watch more closely so you can take off the coat before he gets to the point where he can't wait any longer.
- Your responsibility is to teach your puppy to relieve comfortably on command on all surfaces.
Tips for Preventing Relieving Accidents in Harness
By Emily Simone, Field Service Manager
Reprinted from GDB ALUMNI NEWS
Summer 2005
Ed. Note: Although this article was written for Guide users, it contains many important thoughts on relieving that raisers can apply to our puppies, in our efforts to grapple with relieving issues and prepare our dogs for their future in harness!
Has this happened to your dog? You take your faithful Guide Dog out to his usual area to relieve. It is the same time that you take him every morning, the weather is gorgeous, there are no distractions and you wait for 10, 15, perhaps 20 minutes for your dog to 'do his business'. During this time, he stands there, like a lump, looking up at you as if to say "What are we DOING out here?" You begin to get frustrated and start pulling your dog to get him to move and relieve. He resists and so you begin to think that perhaps he doesn't have to go after all. You harness him up and begin your usual route to the bus stop to get to work. Perhaps one or two blocks into the route, your wonderful dog suddenly stops, hunches and evacuates right in the middle of the sidewalk. Embarrassing? Yes! Frustrating? YES, indeed!
There is no doubt that accidents in harness are a significant source of grief and irritation for many guide dog handlers. It seems particularly frustrating when the handler is very consistent with the schedule and then their dog still has the occasional accident. What is happening? How do we get them to stop?
First, it is critical for the handler to understand that defecation is an involuntary act. This means that the dogs can't help themselves and when the urge strikes them, they must 'heed the call' as it were. It is clear that some dogs are better able to 'hold it' though some can do so for long periods without strain. Other dogs must evacuate immediately if the urge strikes, regardless of where they are. Understanding this critical point is crucial for the handler to recognize. Venting anger or severely correcting the dog when they do have an accident only teaches the dog to evacuate the next time in a more 'covert' manner. I have seen Guide Dogs that will not stop when they relieve, but keep walking, to avoid getting corrected for this involuntary behavior. A far more successful strategy is to do everything possible to get the dog to eliminate prior to going out for a walk.
There are several key factors that can affect a dog's relieving habits:
1. Regular, predictable schedule
2. Stimulation (movement)
3. Type of surface (grass, asphalt, dirt, etc.)
4. Feeding time and frequency of feeding
5. Quality of food
6. Distractions in relieving area
7. Handler's attitude during scheduled relieving
8. Water intake
9. Olfactory stimulation during guide work.
Any or all of these factors can increase a dog's propensity to have regular or occasional accidents in harness. Let's address each issue one by one.
Regular, predictable schedule: There can be no doubt that dogs thrive on regular routines and schedules. Guide Dogs are far more likely to relieve regularly and at appropriate times if they have a consistent daily schedule and get to relieve in the same areas. Each handler and dog have a schedule that works best for them. Your schedule does not have to completely mimic the schedule you had while in class training. It is critical that relieving opportunities coincide with important aspects of daily routes and feeding. In short, your dog should have an opportunity to relieve prior to and after a workout, after feeding, first thing in the morning and before you go to bed at night. Another important point to consider is that taking the dog out to relieve 20 times a day is not going to prevent accidents in harness. It is the quality and timing of relieving opportunities that is important, not the number of times or the amount of time a dog is given to relieve. It is important that you allow a dog at least 10 minutes at a time.
Stimulation (Movement): Let's face it...humans have the advantage of gravity on their side, to assist with bowel movement and regularity. Dogs' bowels are horizontal to the ground, making it more difficult for waste to move through the bowels in a natural manner. For this reason, physical movement is one of the best ways to get a dog to 'feel the urge' to defecate. This is also the reason dogs may not go while standing at the relieving area but immediately feel the urge once they start working and walking. A great strategy is to set aside 10-15 minutes prior to relieving time and give the dog an opportunity for active play. Tug, chasing the Kong, anything that gets him moving. Some dogs are resistant to active play; another successful strategy for this type of dog is to calmly heel the dog up and down a set of stairs or from one room to another. The goal is to get the dog moving and active prior to relieving. This strategy helps the dog to be 'more productive' when he actually goes out to relieve. There are some dogs that 'naturally stimulate' during relieving times. These dogs walk around the handler in a circle and then go without prompting. Other dogs are less active and are stoic when relieving. These dogs benefit most from play sessions prior to relieving.
Type of surface: Most dogs have a 'preferred surface' upon which they will readily relieve. Most dogs enjoy grass, as it holds smells that stimulate relieving. Some dogs actually don't like grass, particularly if it is wet. Some dogs relieve willingly on asphalt, other dogs abhor relieving on asphalt and will hold it rather than relieve. Class training focuses on relieving on asphalt because this surface is more readily available when out working. It is however, not the preferred surface for many dogs. If grass is available to you in most of your travel areas, it may be an easy solution just to allow the dog to relieve on grass or dirt surface. A valuable strategy to avoid accidents in harness is to evaluate the regular relieving area you use and whether your dog 'embraces' that area. Allowing a dog to relieve on a preferred surface can prevent or minimize accidents in harness. If you choose to keep the dog on asphalt or concrete surfaces, make sure the surface is clear of glass or debris and cleaned regularly. Here's a trick to help your dog embrace a new asphalt surface: Try catching some of your dog's urine or feces from another area and put it on the asphalt surface to stimulate relieving.
Feeding time: There has been some noted success with eliminating accidents in harness by changing the time of day a dog is fed. We recommend that Guide Dogs are fed twice a day. Our vets recommend separate feedings and then relieving the dog about 20 minutes after eating, if possible. This time gives all the autonomic nerve functions in the colon a chance to "enjoy the meal", to realize there is too much on board, and then signal to your dog that it is time to relieve. Sometimes switching the dog to a single feeding can prevent accidents. Most people prefer to single feed in the late afternoon or evening, allowing the dog all evening to digest food so they evacuate first thing in the morning. This may work, but some dogs also do better being fed in the morning. In short, just making a big change in the feeding time can help resolve the problem in some dogs. Please don't try this strategy if your dog has a medical diet or has sensitivity to an empty stomach (vomiting bile). You should consult with your vet about any change in feeding routine. Ed. Note: GDB wants us to feed our older puppies twice a day until their recall for harness training. Discuss any changes with your leader before you make them.
Quality of food: Guide Dogs for the Blind recommends feeding your dog a high quality dog food such as Eukanuba or Science Diet. High quality dog foods contain nutrients that your dog is able to absorb and utilize for energy. Lower quality foods have bulk 'filler' material such as corn. Dogs don't utilize or process corn very well and so the bulk of the food passes through the dog's system, creating more waste. In general, higher quality foods produce less waste. There are some premium diets that have very little filler and create very little residue waste. Please consult with your vet before considering a food switch due to relieving issues. Ed Note: Puppy raisers must use the food GDB assigns for our puppies. Ask your leader if you have questions about your puppy's diet.
Distractions in the relieving area: If possible, pick a relieving area that is quiet and away from complex or populated areas. Some dogs get so distracted by watching activities in the environment that they forget to focus on the task at hand: doing their business!
Handler Attitude during relieving times: Some dogs are shy and modest. Some dogs require quiet and concentration to do their business. Many dogs are very reluctant to relieve if the handler is constantly chatting to them, pulling them around the relieving area or constantly reaching down to check if the dog is relieving. Staying calm and quiet and allowing your dog to relieve on a long leash without interference is a simple way to help your dog get the job done. Most dogs will clearly indicate that they are about to 'do the job' by moving or circling. This is the time to reach down and check. Conversely, getting sighted assistance to confirm when dog is going is a reasonable option rather than constantly touching the dog and distracting him from his business.
Urinating in harness, water intake & marking: Up until now, we have been focusing on the problem of defecating in harness. Urinating in harness is frequently related to the amount of water a dog drinks during the day. In general, too much water intake creates the need to urinate more frequently. If your dog has a propensity to drink water to excess at every opportunity, this dog should be put on a water schedule and offered 2 cups at each offering to avoid tanking and relieving issues. Some dogs will also urinate in harness because they are 'marking' their territory. This is a normal dog behavior and both males and females can exhibit this negative behavior. This is a behavior issue rather than a water intake issue and should be addressed in a firm manner. Dogs that are marking frequently release just a small amount of urine as they walk and may lift their leg on a bush as they do so. If you detect your dog doing this, you should stop and immediately correct the dog verbally with a "NO" command and then correct him into a sit position. It is important not to allow your dog to sniff bushes while working to minimize marking behavior. It is also important to note that some urinating in harness or in-house issues may be related an undiagnosed medical disorder such as a urinary tract infection. If you suspect this, consult with your veterinarian.
Olfactory stimulation during guide work: As stated earlier, dogs that have regular opportunities to casually sniff bushes and grass while they perform guide work are more likely to get stimulated to relieve and have accidents. A successful strategy to minimize sniffing during guide work is to utilize a Gentle Leader, which allows the handler to better detect when the dog is lowering his head to sniff. If a Gentle Leader is not available, keeping the leash in your right hand while working and giving small leash corrections when your dog lowers his head may be an alternative technique. You may also utilize sighted assistance to help you detect when the dog is attempting to sniff nearby bushes. Consistent handling and control is key.
In conclusion, preventing relieving accidents in harness is a matter of taking the extra time to evaluate your routine, your relieving environment and your dog's relieving habits. Taking preventive measures to ensure your dog is 'empty' prior to going out for a walk is the best way to avoid embarrassing accidents on route. Remember, your dog can't help his relieving habits, but you can!
A GOOD RELIEVING DOG
by Andrea Loughry
When two Guide Puppy raisers are together, sooner or later the conversation turns to relieving issues. With all the theories, protocols and articles, I thought it might be useful to describe what a good relieving dog "looks like."
Clemens is a good relieving dog. A puppy sitter described him as "manufacturing some" whenever he was asked to do business. And that's exactly what Clemens does: he drains of a thimbleful of urine every single time I ask him to—no matter where we are. If I ask him for his other business, he will either defecate, or sit with his back to me―his signal that he doesn't need to go right now.
Clemens gives clear signals when he needs to relieve—that tell-tale waddle is a dead giveaway. He will hold it until his eyes turn yellow in order to make it outside. He has universalized his training so that he knows to stay clean whenever he is inside and only relieve when he is outside. Now that he's older, Clemens will toddle out to the backyard relieving area and take care of his duty off leash, on voice command. He will hold on for an extra hour in the morning while I get ready for work if I ask him to. A great relieving dog is a joy to socialize and to live with.
How did I produce this wonder of intestinal and urinary fortitude? I kept him on leash, attached to me for the first two months we were together and relieved him on leash every single time he needed to go—on various surfaces and with increasing levels of distraction. I adhered religiously to the protocol of relieving before we went into a public place and having him wait until we got home to take care of things. I keep up his training by relieving on leash first thing every morning and last thing every night.
If it sounds like I'm taking credit for Clemens' spectacular relieving habits, I'm not. I haven't done anything with this dog that I haven't done with every other dog I've raised. Each dog has its own constitution and abilities in the area of relieving. One of my pups would break down unexpectedly, even though he had just been relieved a few minutes before. He needed to go out in the middle of the night—right up until the day he left for harness training. Another had accidents every twenty minutes in the house until he was nine months old. Yet another resisted relieving on surfaces so long that she gave herself a bladder infection. So I don't claim any kind of magic training regime—talented business dogs are more born than made.
Like everything we do with our puppies, our goal is to give each dog its own best change to graduate. If you've been dealt a great relieving dog, enjoy it! If you haven't, try not to get discouraged and keep working the protocol, keeping relieving diaries, and doing your best. Consistency of training can improve the relieving habits of any dog. That's all any puppy raiser can do.
BE PREPAREDA current TV commercial states: "What's in Your Wallet?" We wondered "what's in your puppy kit" —you know, the ones we all carry when we go out with our dogs (especially the baby puppies). Of course, we each discover what works best for us; the main thing is to be prepared for every contingency and take responsibility for cleaning up well when accidents happen, wherever they happen--inside or out. Here's a list to get you started of what some experienced puppy raisers carry in their purses, back-packs, travel and duffel bags to clean up when things get messy and to keep their puppies happy on outings:
FOR CLEAN-UPS:
*travel-sized bottle of Nature's Miracle (decanted into a travel sized lotion or spray bottle).
*cannister of Clorox Clean-Up Wipes or packets of pre-moistened towelettes (for wiping the floor clean as well as your hands).
*several poop bags (newspaper or other small plastic bags for outside pick-ups.
*a supply of paper towels
*plastic grocery bags or trash bags (for disposing of larger, inside clean-ups and control of odors).
*disposable diapers - these absorb more liquid than paper towels and are relatively small to carry.
*Paper plates cut in half - great for scooping up even the loosest stools from tile floors.
FOR PUPPY'S COMFORT:
*a bottle of water
*folding dog bowl
*a chew and throw toy
*ration of food if an all-day outing will mean the puppy must be fed away from home.